I Guess You Could Call it a Post-season Reflection...

     

First place at 11&Under Youth Nationals

As a junior competitor, I was told that I should not let one competition and it’s results ‘define me’ as a climber. We all have good days and bad days...not every competition is going to go your way. For a long time this mentality worked for me. It kept me coming back to compete in events even after I had dropped the ball. It forced me to keep registering in the ‘open’ category of Tour de Bloc’s as a fourteen year old athlete.There were shiny days and $#!77y days. 

     So, when I started coaching development and competitive teams, I would tell my athletes, “don’t let one competition define you as a climber.” I encouraged them to attend nerve wracking competitions out of their comfort zone with the following logic: “ All you can do is your best. You might have an amazing day and you might climb horribly. You and I both know what you are capable of as a climber and that is what truly matters. Don’t look at the results, just do your best and enjoy the experience.” This spiel probably sounds pretty familiar to you if you have been coached by me. It’s because it worked. For many juniors and adult competitors it took a bit of the pressure off and they climbed relatively well and enjoyed themselves.  

Women's 3, Munich: Photo Wolfgang Kendler

     But now I am all grown up. I am sitting in the Mecca of competition climbing staring repulsively at my results from this past world cup season. I’m not necessarily talking about results in terms of where I placed, but moreover the scribbles on my scorecard. A bonus in 5 when it should have been a flash.The results that are the direct reflection of either a winning performance or a losing performance. 

     Now, all of a sudden, results do matter and they do, on a very large scale, define & reflect my skills as a climber. This is because I’ve grown to define myself as a competition climber... why the hell would I be training and competing in Europe otherwise!? What I want more than anything is to be something on an international scale.... to scrounge one measly point from the IFSC rankings. I’m not sure what they are yet, but some drastic changes must be made in my current training regimes. I was ill-prepared the entire season largely because I didn’t understand the style of world cup bouldering. 

Women's 5, Munich: Photo Wolfgang Kendler

     I’m positive that there are some Canadian juniors that will one day step up to the plate and fill my shoes as an international competitor. Kids like Becca Frangos and Eva Thompson have been throwing down and kicking my ass ever since they were fifteen years old... So in my time here in Europe I’ve made it my goal not only to climb as hard as I possibly can and be something... But also to share every bit of information I have acquired from competing here in Europe and pass it on to the juniors that actually stand a fighting chance in these large-scale international competitions.

     So...instead of walking you through my performance in the Munich World Championships, I’d rather walk you through my experience of participating in this season’s World Cups and spell it out exactly how it is... at least from my perspective; Here are the things I’ve come to know and value about competing internationally. The epiphanies of my inexperience and the lessons I will carry while training for next season.

Women's 4, Munich: Photo Wolfgang Kendler

    You will spend an entire year training for competitions, in which you will climb for no longer than 25 minutes at a time. More like 20 minutes actually, when you factor in time spent sequencing and falling on your ass. A maximum of Twenty minutes climbing to be something, so you better bring your A-game. Although the format is the same as many Tour de bloc Finals, these competitions cannot be compared.The feeling is so incredibly different...
     You will walk out onto a foreign mat and turn around to face a wall with unrecognizable holds, alien features and unreadable sequences. You’ll triple guess your sequencing because (this is in my opinion of course): a) 70% of the time the problems are sequence intensive and tricky as hell... you’ll think there is more than one way, but the best way is the only way and it is horribly unclear. b) you’ve never seen a hold, feature or wall like this in your life. c) The problems are circus tricks. Scary sideways slab lunges,  Drive by dynos... or Alex Puccio throws on ‘holds’  that resemble crimps but are actually just friction pads pasted to features.

     Nothing will be what you expected and what you have trained for... Half of being a world cup competitor is knowing how to catch a curve ball. so how do you prep for this sort of thing!? I’m still trying to figure that out... 

Women's 1, Innsbruck: Photo Sytse van Slooten

So I guess you’ll just have to stay tuned!

Big thanks to everyone who continues to support my dream of competing in World Cups.. Friend and Family, your support means the world to me. Sponsors, I couldn't be where I am without you, so thank you!

Evolv
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Calgary Climbing Center
Glow Health Calgary

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Jelisa Dunbar