2014 was a year of incredible performances and noteworthy sends across Canada.... So, I've complied ten highlights of Canadian climbing in 2014 that really stood out to me as important and inspirational. Happy reading!
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| Bonar McCallum post send , photo: Lea Juszkiewics |
Calgary Climbing Center’s head coach of the pro team, Bonar McCallum, sends his first 14a, Bone Thief Extension, at The Lookout after endless hours of hard work and determination. Bonar continues to push his limits as a climber and inspire the community through his many achievements and his dedication to the development of the sport. Progressing into his late 40’s, McCallum’s youthful approach to training has awarded him several high points in 2014, including two 13d first ascents. “It is interesting when people use age as an excuse...part of what I'm exploring is how to continue to progress as you get older.” Say’s McCallum, “I'm using myself as a guinea pig, and hopefully if I figure stuff out on myself I'll be able to pass it on to others.”
Bonar’s wealth of knowledge combined with his experience as an elite climber serves as a major benefit to the local Calgary community. If you see his smiling face around the gym or the crag, be sure to say hello!
Sean McColl expands his realm of victory as he participates in American Ninja Warrior as one of the five contestants representing team Europe. McColl secured the gold in stage 4 of the competition, where he campused up the 77 foot gymnast’s rope 0.31 seconds faster than his opponent! And this wasn’t the only close call for McColl that earned him an exciting and action packed victory! When competing at the Adidas Rockstars competition in Stuttgard, McColl tripped mid-mantle on the finals boulder slapping the buzzer with a mere fingertip as he fell! He won the competition by a split second and the crowd went wild. If you missed the action, check out this clip... it’s well worth watching!
Canmore’s Kendra Stritch sets an important record in history as the first North American to take gold at an official UIAA Ice climbing World Cup! Stritch headed into the Bozeman MT Ice Climbing World Cup with a hunch that she could win it. “I like the extra strategy that competition requires,” explains Kendra, “You have one shot at the route...you just have to go for it! There is no consideration of saving energy for your next attempt!”
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| Bozeman Ice Climbing Cup, Photo: Patho Pix |
“Winning,” says Kendra“ has changed the priority I placed on attending world cups this year.” This unstoppable ice cranking chica is forecasted to compete in three upcoming European cups in 2015... and if this weren’t impressive enough, Stritch is working towards establishing a North American ice/mixed youth climbing team and increasing the awareness and funding of the sport.
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| Marieta Akalski profile picture |
Severing ties with the competition scene to achieve bigger goals, Marieta Akalski pushes the limits of Canadian female sports climbing. Very few Canadian women have managed to climb 5.14a, but Marieta hasn’t stopped there. She quickly sent Florida, 5.14b in Rodellar a couple of days before her ticket back to Canada. Keep an eye out for this girl...she is full of surprises and spontaneity. Rumor has it she has her eyes on Hueco for the winter and plans to crash Canadian Boulder Nationals!
The Eveleigh brothers (Scott, 17 years, Marc, 19 years) impress us again with the grand opening of ‘Old Goat,’ a new bouldering area near Spray Lakes. In the summer of 2013, the boys established boulders in secret and published a guidebook with Cassie Magyar in September, 2014. Climbs range from v0 - v11 with several open projects. It's worth checking out the guide for next season if you are looking for some quality bouldering in the bow valley!
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| Scott & Marc Eveleigh, Photo: Dima Karaman |
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| Simon Parton Photography |
Vancouver’s Simon Parton, aka, ‘the dark horse,’ covers impressive ground in 2014. Parton flies under the radar because of his humble personality and route-setting wizardry (He’s usually working behind the scenes of competitions instead of participating in them). You might not know it, but Parton flashes V10’s for breakfast and redpoints V13 & V14’s regularly. On August 6th, Parton nearly flashed Amandla, V14 in Rocklands, South Africa. “We got lost on the trail” explains Parton, “by the time I found it, I’d been hiking for almost two hours. I was exhausted and not psyched to climb at all...”
Parton slipped on his shoes and surprised himself when he nearly stuck the crux move on his first attempt. “Something in my head clicked” Parton explains, “that this could not only happen...but it could happen right here and right now!” On his second attempt he stuck the crux move and knew that sending was his only option. “I don’t think I’ve ever tried so hard!” says Parton.
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| Munich World Champs, Photo: Sebastien Lazure |
Thomasina Pidgeon demonstrates hard core dedication to the Boulder World Cup circuit on the women's front. She managed to attended six boulder world cups in 2014, although she had her heart set on more. Thomasina also attended Canadian Nationals, the Arco rock masters and several other noteworthy competitions across Germany. “Competition is a different world” says Pidgeon, who’s competitive fire is far from burning out, “I will rewire my mind and every single cell in my body to fight for each and every hold until it’s either in my grasp or my blood lays on the floor.” Personally, Thomasina inspired me. Her fierce commitment to compete in international competitions is something that more Canadian women should adopt!
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| Semi finals, photo:thecircuitclimbingmedia |
Jason Holowach makes a striking impression when he walks away with the National Champion title at Canadian Boulder Nationals in March, 2014. However, I think Holowach’s more proud moment was when he attended his first ever World Championship competition in Munich, Germany and competed against 106 open competitors. Being one of the spectators myself, my jaw litteraly dropped when Holowach qualified for semi finals in 5th place. 5th place people!!! This put him into semi finals ahead of some big names, such as Adam Ondra and Guillaume Glairon Mondet! Little Jay’ is definitely someone to watch out for in 2015!
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| The medalists, Pan Am's Photo: Jennie Jariel |
The Canadian Youth team dominates at the Pan American Youth Championships in Mexico City, November 2014, winning gold in three disciplines and making the podium in several age categories. Robert Stewart Patterson placed 1st in speed, Lucas Uchida took the gold in bouldering and Elan JonasMcrae won in lead! Some of the other names on the podium are Alyssa Weber, 3rd place lead and Catherine Carkner 3rd place boulder. If these kids keep it up, we are sure to see some big names as they break into the World Cup scene.
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| Josh on First Flight, Photo: Read Macadam |
Regan Kennedy knocks down her V10 project over the Christmas holidays where she spent some weeks cranking in Bishop and Red Rocks. The steep and crimpy terrain of Scare Tactics only took Regan three days to piece together. “I assumed the first move would taunt me for days, but I did it in a few tries!” says Regan who has happily ticked off her 3rd V10 from her expanding ticklist.
Her sweetie Josh Muller, as expected, has also made some impressive gains in 2014. He took down the first ascent of First Flight, 5.14c in Acephale after having to reinvent beta because he ripped a hold from the crux sequence
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| Regan Kennedy on Scare Tactics |
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