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Sunday, May 11, 2014

A Step in the Right Direction Starts with the Feet, Right? ( or Left)



My jaw is still hanging in awe after watching the semifinalists in the Grindelwald World Cup this morning. These climbers need to be on their game, 100% of the time... and that’s exactly what it takes to succeed as a World Cup climber. Sean McColl explains that “ World Cup problems aren’t actually thaaat much harder than the problems we see at Canadian Nationals. Many of the problems are probably around a V6 or V7 level.” He continues, “The true challenge lies in whether you can do every V6 in the world, in any style, in any environment in under 5 minutes?” He laughs, “I know I can’t!” 
The funny thing is, Sean was right. After climbing yesterday in the qualification round I was shocked to come out and flash problem 1. Although I didn’t make it to the top of any other problems, I came quite close on one and tagged 3 bonuses. The problems weren’t impossible...even for normal people and normal climbers like myself. What seems impossible though, is the ability to execute these problems in 5 minutes time. Even more difficult and more important... to flash these problems. 
I don’t know the recipe for success yet, but I definitely tasted some of the ingredients this weekend. “You just had to trust your feet and stand up on them” said Sean when I asked him what went wrong on problem 2. I thought that would be his answer.... but I didn’t really want to hear it. In general, I have been finding the footwork here in Europe much more challenging than back at home. So many obscure features, hooks, smears and teeny tiny footholds. I remember my immediate thought after the Munich World Cup last year was “wow... I really need to learn how to use my feet on features!” So I dabbled with tricky foot sequences for a little bit but eventually grew bored and moved on. I can’t say I was surprised yesterday when I ran into tricky foot sequences and many footholds that were either a) features or b)dual textured pieces of S$&T! I sort of had to laugh at myself for not working on these things when I knew I should have. I’m that kid who doesn’t want to eat their broccoli!
       Today I watched the semi finalists and finalists use their feet as if they were another set of hands. I stood there in utter amazement at the number of sequences they could come up with and the subtleties in each of their attempts. While my feet are often an accessory, theirs are necessity. Just look at what they can do and have to do with their feet (moreover... legs) to solve these problems! So... In conclusion, I'm inspired yet again to train funky footwork. Aren't you?? ( You will be once you scroll down:)

      


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